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A walk on the wildlife side (SCMP)Thursday, June 3, 2004 A walk on the wildlife side
By Sherry Lee Since last July, when individual mainland tourists were granted access to Hong Kong, more have been flocking across the border. In January, 1,115,151 mainlanders visited, compared with 750,929 in the same month last year. 自從去年7月, 香港政府放寬內地個人游以後, 來港內地人數不斷增加, 相對於去年一月同期的750,929人次, 本年一月已上升至1,115,151人次
But, little known to the average Hongkonger, other groups of mainland tourists - more interested in the rare black-faced spoonbill than a rare Hermes Birkin bag - are taking to the hills. Rather than lining the pockets of local merchants (the average mainland tourist spends $5,600), they prefer to hitch a ride on the Dragon's Back, straddle Horse Saddle Mountain or roar over Lion Rock. 但少數香港人會知道, 一批另類的內地遊客, 是喜愛觀賞野外的黑臉琵鷺多於搜羅歐洲名牌手袋, 喜歡走到山上而不喜歡在商店購物(內地旅客平均在港消費5600港元), 那一批旅客選擇在山脈上奔馳、跨在馬上遊歷於山中、或是走到獅子山上像獅子般咆哮
One Sunday a month, Richy Luk puts on his hiking boots and shows mainland tourists an alternative to money-hungry Hong Kong. "A lot of mainlanders think Hong Kong is just a financial and commercial city," says the 35-year-old technical officer with the Housing Authority. "I want to show them the other side of Hong Kong." 每月的其中一個星期日, Richy 都會穿上他的行山鞋, 帶給一些內地遊客觀賞香港的另一個面貌, 他表示 :「很多內地人都祇知道香港是一個商業城市, 所以我希望可以把香港的另一面帶給他們看」
Luk takes his groups into the great outdoors of Hong Kong's walking trails, and increasing numbers are enthusiastically embracing the free service he offers. "I didn't know we could hike in Hong Kong," says Danny Xue, a female manager of a Shenzhen logistics company. "I used to come here to shop, but after a few visits I got bored. The walking tours are great, and offer us something other than shopping." 他帶領他們走進香港最有名的行山徑, 由於不收分文, 參加人數不斷增加。一名在深圳任職物流業經理的Danny女士說:「其實我並不知道香港也可以行山的, 以前我來香港都是購物, 但去了幾次後, 我已經感覺厭倦, 但這個行山活動真好, 他可以給了我一些購物以外的東西」。
A male companion, Jedy Woo Hai-zhong, who works in marketing at a Shenzhen chemical company, agrees. He marvels at the facilities and information the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department provides for hikers. "The management of Hong Kong country parks is great," he says. "They provide barbecue places for free. You have public toilets, and places for camping." The two were part of a 60-strong group that turned up for last Sunday's eight-hour walk, starting from Tai Wai KCR station in Sha Tin and taking in the Shing Mun Reservoir and Lion Rock on the way to Tze Wan Shan in Kowloon. Although a few wore jeans and sandals, others donned the attire of professional hikers: boots, backpacks, waterproof hats, jackets and trousers, sunglasses and walking sticks. 他的其中一名戰友"宇宙公民", 是一名深圳化工原料公司的職員, 讚歎香港郊外的配套設施十分完備, 宇宙公民說:「香港的郊野公園的管理相當好, 而且免費提供燒烤場地、廁所和露營的地方」, 當日他們一行60多人, 由沙田徒步至慈雲山, 途經城門水塘和獅子山, 雖然部雖然部份人祇穿著牛仔褲和涼鞋, 但亦有部份人士穿著較專業的行山鞋、背包、防水帽子、戶外衣物、太陽眼鏡和行山杖。
Although many didn't know each other, they soon became friendly and joked with each other along the route, while taking in the spectacular scenery. Afterwards, Luk took them into the city - but only to see a light show on the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade and to dine at a Shanghainese restaurant, before it was time to return across the border. The amount spent at local emporiums? Zero. 起初的時侯, 參加者彼此都不認識, 但不久他們都在旅途中有講有笑, 在美麗的風景下成為好朋友, 在旅程的末段, Richy 帶領隊伍走進鬧市中 -- 但祇是在尖沙咀的海濱觀看激光表演, 然後他們在一所上海菜館吃晚飯, 一天的行程總共消費? 零元。
Luk's inspiration for the tours started last year, when he tapped into a Shenzhen-based website that organises weekly hiking trips. He discovered a section in which visitors exchange information about outdoor activities in Hong Kong. In October, a few months after the individual visas were permitted for residents in a limited number of mainland cities, inquiries about Hong Kong trail walking started to appear, including a request for information about how to get to Tai Mo Shan. "I replied and pasted a map and pictures. Then, they asked if I could take them there." Luk didn't think twice. 他的靈感是始於去年, 當時他正瀏覽深圳的戶外活動網站, 那裡有一個香港討論區, 當時正好自由行開放了, 查詢香港的戶外活動的貼子亦開始出現, 當時有些人正在查詢如何遊覽大帽山, Richy 說:「 當時我貼了一些路線圖及資料出來, 之後他們便要求我作領隊帶領他們, 當然我沒有想便答應了」。
It wasn't long before he was waiting outside the Sheung Shui KCR station for his new mainland friends. "I wasn't nervous," he says. "I just treated it as taking my friends for a hike." Later, Woo and He Jun, a 43-year-old Shenzhen shop salesman who was on his first eco-tour, as Luk calls them, volunteered to escort people from the Shenzhen border building to various walking trails. 「每次集合的時候, 我並不會十分擔心, 我祇會把他們視作普通的行山友」, 到了集合時間, 宇宙公民和河馬哥出現了(河馬哥是一名43歲從事零售業的深圳居民), 他們二人會在深圳聯檢大樓那邊負責召集深圳的朋友。
Today, interest in Luk's tours is growing, with about 70 to 80 inquiries for each outing, and at least 50 turning up each month. The hikers are mostly office workers in their 20s. There are IT technicians, computer engineers, office clerks, insurance agents and shop assistants. Luk says the greatest interest so far has been from people from Shenzhen, with one hiker travelling from Guangzhou. But his tours also attract mainlanders working and studying at Hong Kong universities. 今天, 參加在港拉磨的人數不斷增加, 大概每次也有70至80個查詢, 而成行亦會有約50人, 大部份參加者均為20餘歲的人, 他們一般都是電腦/電訊從業人員、文職人員、保險從業人員及營業員, Richy 說 : 「大部份有興趣的參加者均來自深圳, 也曾有一名是由廣州來的朋友, 而那活動亦吸引了一批在港工作及讀書的內地人」。
Several Hong Kong hikers have also joined the tours, and there's even interest emerging the other way. Local accountant Bill Wong Sin-yung says he'd like to meet someone who'll help him explore walks in rural Shenzhen, known more as the home of fake brands than mountain streams. 一些香港的行山友亦會參加拉磨, 本地會計師Bill Wong稱, 他希望借此認識一些內地行山友, 從而認識深圳一帶的名山大川。
 Xue might be able to help him. She used to drive for about two hours to reach good walks along Shenzhen's coast or in its rural areas. But now she's happier popping into Hong Kong to hit the trails. "The hills in Shenzhen are high and dangerous, but Hong Kong hills are lower. And with one linking another, there are more scenes to see, and the sea view is beautiful." 阿Bill的願望也許可以由薜小姐為他實現, 因為她曾經自駕兩小時, 到達深圳東岸的一些村落來徒步, 現在, 她亦很高興在香港的活動, 她說 :「深圳的山比香港的較高而且危險, 但香港則不一樣, 而且香港的山連山, 山上和海岸風光都很美」。
Beautiful landscapes are one attraction of Hong Kong trails. Safety is another. Despite a series of recent muggings and robberies on some of Hong Kong's hiking tails, mainland hikers still say Hong Kong is safer. "Shenzhen hikers were robbed at times," Woo says. "When we camp, we have to get one to two men to guard our camp throughout the night." 行山徑上美麗的海岸風光故固然吸引, 安全亦是很重要的, 近日香港雖然接二連三發生郊野公園行劫案, 內地行山人士仍然覺得香港是比較安全, 宇宙公民說 :「深圳經常出現行山人士遇劫事件, 所以當我們在深圳露營時, 我們必須在晚上留下兩個男生在營外守護, 整夜不睡」。 Human resources manager Christine Ru is a newcomer to Hong Kong mountain hiking. "I've been visiting Hong Kong since 1997 and usually shop for clothes with friends. Sometimes, I go the movies. I'm not tired of this yet, but I want to try something different," the 33-year-old says. 三十三歲人力資源部經理Christine是第一次參加香港拉磨的活動, 她稱:「我在1997就已經來香港旅遊了, 一般我會跟朋友一起來香港買衣服, 或去看電影, 對此我並不感到厭倦, 但是我亦希望在香港認識到一些不同的事物」。 While local walkers usually carry bread, biscuits and water, mainlanders often eat differently. Luk recalls one hiker who took a whole salty preserved duck and shared it. 一般行山者都會帶備麵包、餅乾和水來充飢, 但內地行山者往往有所不同, Richy 回憶大刀屻那一次行山, 其中一個參加者竟拿出一隻醬板鴨來分給大家吃。 Despite not charging for his services ("If I charge, the nature will turn bad," he says), Luk does a thorough job preparing the hikes, walking the trail and taking photographs of it to check the environment, reminding people via the Do You Hike website what they need to bring. He puts details, including photos, a map, dates and times on the site a month in advance. Before setting out on the day, he divides hikers into three small groups, with himself, Woo and He in charge. 儘管這並不是一項收費的活動(Richy稱:若是收費的話, 整個意義就會變質), 他仍然為整個行程作出詳細的預備, 包括事前準備, 預走拍照及留意環境的變化, 並透過磨房及大本營網站提醒參加者, 這些資料很多時都會在出發前一個月已經預備好了。當出發之前, 他亦會把隊伍分成3小隊, 由他本人、河馬哥及宇宙公民分領及管理。 "Twice along the way, I check names against a list to make sure we haven't lost anyone," he says. "Some people walk so fast, much faster than me, so I have to make sure everyone travels at the same pace." 他說 :「我會在行程中點名兩次, 以因為部份驢子走得太快, 透過點名便可以確保不會走失」。 So far, he has taken six tours to places such as Tai Po, the Peak, and Lantau Island, and more locations are on the cards. He makes sure the routes have attractions, so visitors can learn more about local life and culture. He introduces them to the interesting flora and fauna and discusses Hong Kong and Shenzhen current affairs and social life. 至今, 他總共召集了6次拉磨活動, 例如有去大埔、山頂、大嶼山及其他路線, 設計路線時他必須確保有一些名勝可觀賞, 以致參加者從中可以瞭解香港的生活及文化, 他亦會介紹香港的動植物生態給他們認識, 當然亦會討論深港之間的人和事。 During the Peak hike, he took his group to the doorway of Chief Secretary Donald Tsang Yam-kuen's home, walked to Government House, Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens, St John's Cathedral and the Court of Final Appeal, before reaching Lan Kwai Fong for a drink. At Tai Po, hikers visited the Fung Shui Tree (fortune tree) in Lam Tsuen, Kadoorie Farm and a People's Liberation Army camp. Of course, the Lantau hike centred on the Big Buddha.在其中一次的港島山頂拉磨活動, 他帶領隊伍走到政務司司長的官邸門前參觀, 也走過前港督府、動植物公園、聖約翰大教堂和終審法院。而另外一次大埔之旅, 他們遊覽林村許願樹、嘉道理農場和解放軍軍營。而大嶼山之旅, 參觀大佛當然不可缺少。 With the warmer weather, Luk is changing his eco-tour tactics. Last month, for the first time, he took mainland visitors snorkelling in Sai Kung. To protect the environment from pollution and damage, he asked the visitors to promise not to tell others where they had snorkelled, so as not to encourage irresponsible divers. And he made sure they didn't litter and didn't smoke. 隨著天氣轉熱, Richy 亦開始改變活動形式, 在上一個月, 他第一次召集西貢浮潛活動, 為了盡可能保護環境, 他要求參加者不要在網上公佈浮潛的地點及如何到達, 以確保那些珊瑚不會被惡意破壞。 The experience has opened his eyes. "I have learnt mainland slang and culture. This has broadened my eyes," he says. 透過舉辦活動, Richy 從中學會很多東西, 他說:「從中我可以學到很多內地人慣用的術語及文化, (例如FB等同吃飯等等..)」。 His guide friend, He, is full of praise for the walking tours, saying they've pushed the cultural exchange between Hong Kong and Shenzhen. And already others are following in Luk's footsteps.他的老拍檔河馬哥對在港的拉磨活動以充滿讚賞的語氣說 :「我們正在推動深港間的文化交流」 "Recently, a mainland female migrant who joined one of my tours brought people to Cheung Chau, too," says Luk. "More people may follow suit." If you want to join a Luk tour, got to 若你想加入他們的行列, 請登入
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THINK OF MAINLAND tourists in Hong Kong and images of flag-wielding chaperones leading groups into gold shops and designer-label boutiques spring to mind. 內地遊客在香港旅遊時, 往往讓我們聯想到旅行團的領隊帶著他們進入金店或時裝名店購物
Born in a Tuen Mun village, Luk started hiking as a child. "I followed my father to get herbs from the mountains," he says. "I also picked up wood for fuel." At 14, he started hiking with classmates. As an adult, Luk - who now lives in Yuen Long - continued his interest, but mainly on his own. Now, the mainland hikers have become his companions, he says. 在香港屯門出生的Richy, 自小已經開始行山, 他說:「我自小要跟爸爸到山上採藥, 而且也要拾柴枝來燒」, 他開始組織行山活動是始於14歲那年, 當時是和他的中學同學一起登山。 現在, 他住在元朗並沒有停止他的愛好, 但很多時都是獨自上山, 現在, 那些內地行山朋友已經成為了他的行山良伴。
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